Fish with ginger and scallion from Christopher Golden Wok (159 Christopher Street, 212-463-8182)
Today, Year of the Takeout had quite the feast!
We ran from smack in the middle of Williamsburg to the West Village in search of a gastronomic relic — one of the area’s last remaining Chinese-American carry-aways — and had worked up enough of an appetite by that time to try a bunch of things on the menu.
My colleague Robert Sietsema hypothesized a bit about Christopher’s longevity: Though a lot of these restaurants had shuttered in the Village over the years, the nearby PATH train provided this particular bistro with a steady stream of hungry, hurried customers.
An item that stuck out at this stalwart was the fish. Typically, pescatarian picks at these eateries involve shrimp or scallops, not an unspecified gilled water-dweller. In addition to saucier approaches, these selections often come fried, in app form, to please Americans’ fanaticism over anything fried.
As always, curiosity (read: gastrointestinal masochism) got the best of YotT, and we got the $5.95 fish with ginger and scallion.
My dining buddy was not supportive of this mystery-fish idea, so we got beef egg foo young as a backup. We also threw in a squid with garlic sauce.
Anyway, he was rightly cautious: We couldn’t identify the fish, which came in a crusty, congealed form, like a fishstick-McNugget mash-up. The heavy sauce abounded with green onion, but felt quite light on the root spice.
The $7.25 egg foo young, on the other hand, did the job just right. Drenched in a thick and hot gravy, the omelet patties had a pleasant balance of beefiness and egginess. The $5.85 squid was pretty workable, too.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 5, 2012