Bobwhite Lunch & Supper Counter (94 Avenue C, 212-228-2972) opened about a month ago, dishing up Dixie staples (fried chicken with biscuits, pork chop sandwiches, tomato pudding, braised greens, and grits). We popped in for lunch recently and were pleased to see one of our favorite Southern sammies: pimento cheese. Pimento cheese is having a bit of a moment, being all gussied up and sold at fancy-pants prices (Clover Club’s $11 pressed pimento cheese and ham on focaccia, for example). Which, quite frankly, isn’t how you should eat pimento cheese. The red-pepper-mayo-cheddar spread should be served on white bread and at cheap prices. Which is luckily what you’ll find here.
Our sandwich was priced at a very reasonable $5.50 and served on white bread. We’d argue that mesclun lettuce doesn’t have a place on a pimento cheese sandwich, but we’ll let it slide, since the cheese was nicely sharp. It’s not an earth-shattering sandwich, and we’ve had better versions around, but it’s nice to find a restaurant that doesn’t overly fetishize Southern cuisine, selling down-home staples at exorbitant prices. The fried chicken we tried was also a steal at $9.50, though service was on the slow side. Still, it can be tricky to find a complete lunch in this city for under $10, which is why we’re pretty stoked about this new Southern spot.