Soho residents who don’t have lenient enough schedules to allow them to poke at their iPads over tea and a sandwich at Bond Street hot spot the Smile, rejoice. Because the cooler-than-thou dudes behind the concept have opened up a satellite takeaway shop on Howard Street.
Housed in the former Lucky Bakery, Smile To-Go offers fresh and clean flavors in a rotating chalkboard-presented roster of dishes. Craving a light cheese and fig sandwich for lunch? They’ve got it. Need a rotisserie chicken to take home for dinner? They sell that, too, and while you’re there pick up a kale-cheddar tart or scone for tomorrow’s breakfast.
The spot has an airy feel and just a few tables where you’ll find the same hip young things who frequent the original location. But no one will judge you as you ponder the options. A recent offering of fennel-cucumber salad dotted with pomegranate seeds was refreshing, dressed with a light hand, and just a sprinkle of fresh herbs. The rotisserie chicken is rosemary-rubbed and moist, though the skin doesn’t have a satisfying crackle. Though it’s likely that the ‘hood’s fashion hounds eat around that part anyway.
22 Howard Street, near Crosby Street
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 7, 2012