Behold, the Valentine’s black-and-white.
Long-running downtown Brooklyn deli Junior’s has an always-active bakery carryout operation right inside the front door, where the most popular pastries are plain cheesecake, cheesecake with canned cherries, cheesecake with canned pineapple, cheesecake with canned blueberries, and black-and-white cookies of magnificent proportion.
The line at the bakery counter reflects the impending holiday, with an entire counter of Valentine’s-related pastries, cookies, and cupcakes.
Originating in Germany, the black-and-white is really more cake than cookie. In the old country, it was frosted white, but sometime in the early 20th century the split cookie with contrasting frostings was invented. Some say the cookie was invented in Utica, New York, at Hemstrought’s Bakery, but most accounts agree that northern New Jersey, upstate New York, and New York City constitute its range.
The Junior’s invention is unique, in Fork in the Road’s estimation, with the usual chocolate frosting replaced with a bright-red strawberry or cherry frosting, depending on which it tastes like to you. FiTR honestly couldn’t tell.
386 Flatbush Avenue Extension, Brooklyn
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 12, 2012