Artichoke and Smoked Pancetta Pizza — This beauty makes lavish use of whole, oil-soaked artichokes, which are the long-stemmed roses of pizzerias. The smoked Italian bacon adds a high note, and the whole is engulfed in creamy mozzarella.
This week, Counter Culture jumps into yet another wood-burning oven to assay the output of the city’s latest Naples-style pizzeria, Barconcino, right on Franklin in Crown Heights. Of the nine pies, plus occasional specials, we picked three faves, plus a bonus appetizer. To my mind, the pies are better than Kesté’s, and a dollar or two cheaper.
Meatball Pizza — This pie was a special one evening, crumbling the so-called Neapolitan meatballs that are one of the apps. I got news for you guys, meatballs are an American phenomenon owing more to New York’s German meat markets of a century ago than to Naples, where folks prefer their meat unground. Nevertheless, this pie is wonderful, and the meatballs are a great feature of this resoundingly Italian-American pie.
Margherita Pizza — On the other hand, the margherita offered at Barboncino tasted to me authentic in every way, and if we took one to Naples and served it at, say, Da Michele, it could be mistaken for the product of those sainted ovens.
Next: Our favorite app
Flame-Grilled Peppers — It’s amazing what a little olive oil, capers, and smoke will do to some plain bell peppers, transforming them into something succulent and tasty. Much better eating them this way than slapping them on a pizza.
781 Franklin Avenue
Crown Heights, Brooklyn
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 21, 2012