The epic roast brisket on a club roll, gravy on the side, $12
After scaring many by being closed for three months, David’s Brisket House in downtown Bedford-Stuyvesant has reopened, and the reason for closing is instantly apparent.
The interior has been totally redesigned, putting the spacious kitchen in the rear half of the storefront. It has extensive covered steam tables, and multiple slicing stations. The front is now a dining room with perhaps eight tables, and the place has a nifty new stamped-tin ceiling.
Has David’s — open since the early ’70s — gone upscale? No, prices remain substantially lower than other delis’ on hot pastrami, corned beef, and brisket sandwiches, of which the brisket is the best of all, caramelized on the edges, steaming hot, and of concentrated flavor. This brisket rocks emphatically, and gravy should be rained down on it to heighten the taste intensity. The other meats are merely good. Another great feature is that the sandwiches can be ordered in three sizes: small ($6), regular ($9), and large ($11-$12). Even the small is large.
David’s Brisket House
533 Nostrand Avenue
The interior of David’s Brisket has been extensively remodeled.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 27, 2012