Is $11 too much money to pay for a grilled cheese sandwich? That’s the question posed by Beecher’s Big Deal, one of its special sandwiches: a grilled cheese packed with caramelized onions, spinach, salami, smoked turkey, and the shop’s No Woman cheese, which is flavored with jerk spices. The gourmet grilled cheese has had its run this year, with shops like Queens Kickshaw and Little Muenster, not to mention the new Say Cheese, located at 142 West 83rd Street. But most shops tend to sell their sammys for under a Hamilton. How does this one measure up?
In truth, this sandwich is much more of a grilled meat sandwich than a grilled cheese. The No Woman (named for Bob Marley, given the widespread use of jerk seasonings in Jamaica) is subtle, lending a spiced, nutty quality but not necessarily ooey gooeyness. The cold cuts take center stage; one porky, one smoky, nicely balancing each other. It’s a good sandwich, for sure — one we’d likely even order again. And it certainly is big. It might even be a bona fide big deal. It’s just not necessarily a deal.