FOOD ARCHIVES

Year of the Takeout Day 58: Hawkers

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Watercress Dumplings from Hawkers (225 East 14th Street, 212-982-1688)

OK, so we’ve been a little obsessive at Year of the Takeout lately — we have been repeatedly drawn to fusion restaurants be they Chinese-Latin or simply pan-Asian.

Fourteenth Street is a veritable cornucopia of these eateries — from Red House to Riceton to Vanessa’s Dumpling House .

And today we present Hawkers, which claims to be Southeast Asian — specifically Thai and Malaysian — but nevertheless serves up several Chinese specialties, including a full-on dim sum menu.

Indeed YotT was intrigued by the dumplings — we kinda have a thing for overstuffed morsels of meat-filled dough. (What kind of self-respecting human being wouldn’t? Come on!)

Anyway, the watercress variety comes four to a $5 order.

The apparent rice dough has a toothsome chewiness, and the filling feels virtually paste-like, a formed, plump portion of shellfish and bitter vegetable emboldened by garlic.

YotT generally enjoyed this dish, but must comment on the logistics of eating these things: It’s almost impossible to do so gracefully.

Maybe the steaming time wasn’t exactly right, but a bit too much space (or moisture?) between the interior and noodle exterior made the meat go slipping and sliding (and sometimes, flying!) with each bite.

This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 28, 2012

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