Coluck: Hong Kong Fusion Diner


One of Coluck’s signature dishes is spaghetti luxuriantly topped with ham, chicken, and cream corn.

This week Counter Culture crawls into the cave of the Chinatown Arcade, investigating one of the city’s Hong Kong-style cafés, where fusion elements run to southern Chinese, British, American, regional Chinese, Japanese, and Portuguese. There’s nothing quite like it now on the American dining scene with the possible exception of the Greek diner, which probably fuses as many culinary elements on one menu. So climb with us into Coluck, where Italian sausage has been added to the list of favored Hong Kong ingredients. Find out how the fennel sausage tastes matched with kimchi and ramen.

The big picture windows at Coluck look into an alleyway.

Small sandwiches are made on sesame-seeded bao, like this one of Spam and egg.

You can even get a peanut butter sandwich on toasted white bread.

Egg breakfast comes with a hot dog. That’s good!

The stuffed cruller is a delight.

Yes, you can get standard Cantonese fare at Coluck, including this bargain plate of rice cake with shredded pork and cabbage.

Ta-da — the kimchi Italian sausage ramen that first caught my eye