Many people were bummed when Acme Bar & Grill shuttered last year, but its reincarnation at 9 Great Jones Street (212-203-2121) — a swankier New American concept with Mads Refslund, a Noma founder, at the helm — has attracted its own foodie fans. One dish in particular illustrates why.
Three plump sunchokes arrive slightly charred because they’ve been gently smoked over hay, tucked under cascading pillows of gruyère foam. A sprinkling of winter truffles adds a lovely earthy note that pairs well with the root vegetable. As with many of the dishes at Acme, tiny herbs and flowers grace the plate. Recalling coals under a snowdrift, it’s a $12 dish that looks like winter. And most certainly one you should eat before spring officially arrives.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on March 2, 2012