Speedy Romeo (376 Classon Avenue, 718-230-0061) opened up recently on the border of Bed-Stuy and Clinton Hill, offering a menu of wood-fired pizzas, steaks, and grilled seafood in a cozy setting. The spot, which is named after one of the chef’s family’s racehorses, offers a selection of inventive pies, like the St. Louie (Provel [a Missourian processed cheese], sausage, pepperoni, and pickled chiles) or the Casey Moore (baked clams, béchamel, tarragon, and spinach), but one of the most memorable dishes from a recent visit was the baked oyster appetizer.
A sort of Italian riff on Oysters casino (itself based on the Rhode Island clam classic), five fat bivalves are stuffed with a combo of ground prosciutto and bread crumbs, then baked until bubbly and brown. The oysters lose some of their aggressive, briny flavor when cooked, taking on a sweetness that pairs nicely with the meaty topping. It whets the appetite (we certainly could have downed a whole second order of ’em), putting you in the mood to stuff your face with pizza. Which also you inevitably will.