Fish Cake With Pickled Vegetables from Sun Sai Gai Restaurant (220 Canal Street, 212-964-7256)
So wonderfully weird is this $11.50 selection that Year of the Takeout laments not having a bigger appetite.
Briny but semisweet greens — steamed and sautéed to a soft, stew-like texture — accompany slice after slice of mild, salty fish cakes.
The concept — processed, molded fish and pickled veggies — sounds outright disgusting, but the juxtaposition of super-strong salad and pescatarian patties results in unexpected mouthbliss.
The downside? The restaurant apparently runs out of the most popular dim sum dishes, so certain dumplings and buns might not be available after a certain hour.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on March 11, 2012