Robert Sietsema at John Brown Smokehouse; No Times Stars for La Mar Cebicheria


See what the city’s restaurant critics have been up to this week:

In the Voice, Robert Sietsema tries some Kansas City ‘cue at John Brown Smokehouse in Queens: “Like all great barbecues, John Brown tends to be quirky and uneven; you wouldn’t want it any other way and will quickly zone in on the things you like best. For me, it’s the brisket tips, pulled pork, lamb sausage, French fries, and coleslaw.”

La Mar Cebicheria gets no stars from Pete Wells, who was horrified by the dining-room service: “Any restaurant can get the hiccups. This one was having a full-blown seizure.”

Adam Platt gives Williamsburg’s Isa two stars, raving about its “shimmering red, impeccably tender beef tartare.”

Gael Greene heads to King and finds Francis Derby’s tater tots “irresistable.” Around the time the review was published, Derby quit the restaurant.