Roast pork over rice with bok choy and a fried egg
This week Counter Culture slides into Brooklyn Wok Shop, where a mainly Cantonese menu is offered at an elevated price in a room decorated with soup bowls. The review isn’t too kind to the spot, but, nevertheless, several good dishes are identified. Here are five of them, in order of increasing desirability.
5. Roast Pork (above) — This dish is a variation on the strips of red-tinted roast pork found in charcuterie windows in Chinatown. As with all entrees at BWS, it’s served over rice with a vegetable tossed in to make a complete meal. Adding a runny fried egg is an immense improvement.
4. Egg Tart — Brought to Asia by Portuguese mariners in the 16th century, this yolky custard pastry is produced in excellent fashion with pastry-chef skills at BWS. It is the only dessert.
3. Salt and Pepper Squid — Yes, it looks and tastes just like bar-food calamari, which is not a bad thing at all. And the portion is relatively generous.
2. Roast Pork Bun — A floppy bao folded over sliced pork with a thick sweet sauce something like hoisin, but not quite.
1. Scallion Pancake — Fresher tasting by a mile than the rubbery ones you get at Chinese carryouts, and with a nicely formulated soy-sauce dip.
Next: Some of the worst dishes
Black Bean Tofu — A nearly inedible mass of tough long beans with little tofu and no black bean flavor
Spicy Curry Vegetable Soup — Too much like the black bean tofu
Home-Style Chicken Soup — A towering monument to the lazy god Bland
Fried Chicken Wings — Coated in sweet, sweet glop
General Tso’s Chicken — Once again, the sweet glop approach, and not very much chicken, either, inside those thickly coated morsels