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Ma Po Tofu from New Hong Kong Kitchen (756 Grand Street, Brooklyn, 718-388-1331)
Said to be named after the pockmarked vendor who first marketed the dish, fast-food-like versions of ma po tofu tend not to have the pork or sichuan peppercorns present at costlier bistros. Also, the sauce tends to be considerably thicker at Year of the Takeout -style eateries: more like a gravy than a broth.
But that doesn’t make the selection bad: Ma po stock seems to be slightly more nuanced than straight-up soy-based brown dressing, and the combo of mild tofu and salt-heavy sauce feels pleasantly filling.