Fatty ‘Cue’s new lunch menu will surprise fans of the restaurant’s porky signature dinner dishes. The best things on it are not the meaty mains — quarter-pound deep-fried bacon, pork ribs, and fried chicken — which are better saved for a time when you can lay undisturbed in a food coma for hours after your meal. Rather, the sandwiches, served with a pile of sweet pickles and decent homemade potato chips, are the standout options. Substantial and slightly greasy but still light enough for afternoon eating, the fried oyster roll ($13) is the best of the lot.
For the sandwich, a handful of seriously plump oysters, breaded lightly and fried to order, are piled atop a thick slice of buttery Texas toast. Cabbage kimchi, slender slices of cucumber, and a few sprigs of cilantro brighten up the fried ingredients, forming a juicy sandwich that’s messy to eat but worth the trouble.