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Malaysian Buddhist Delight from Overseas Taste Restaurant (49 Canal Street, 212-925-3233)
Overseas Taste claims to have both Chinese and Malaysian specialties. Year of the Takeout was particularly intrigued by the restaurant’s approach to Buddhist Delight–which tends to be a plate of plain, steamed greens and carrots with brown soy gravy on the side.
This $11.95 platter, however, comes packed with veggies, bean curd skin, Chinese mushrooms, and bean thread in a garlicky brown sauce. It is far from the “meh,” run-of-the-mill version typically encountered: The tofu gives an eggy, meaty texture without feeling too rich. The noodles, meanwhile, contribute a heartiness unfound in carb-less approaches. This pick just excels.