Robert Sietsema at Benares; Two Stars for Empellón Cocina, Perla


See what the city’s restaurant critics have been up to this week:

In this week’s Voice, Robert Sietsema samples the cuisine of Uttar Pradesh at Benares: “The best thing on the menu is a soup, paradoxically, because most people ignore soups entirely in Indian restaurants. Attukal paya ($8) is like something you’d normally find only in Pakistani steam-table joints, an unctuous potage featuring swatches of squishy goat foot flavored with a delicate mixture of spices.”

Pete Wells awards two stars to Empellón Cocina: “At its best, Mr. Stupak’s cooking at Empellón Cocina resembles the food of Mexico the way a dream resembles life.”

Adam Platt gives two stars to Perla for its rustic, hearty offerings: “I suppose it’s possible not to eat like a drunken Viking at Perla, but as a dutiful professional, I never managed the trick.”

In The New Yorker‘s Tables for Two, Andrea K. Scott is wooed by Wong: “From the first bite of the pungent paratha, served, in lieu of bread, with a curry-rich dipping sauce, the food’s complex flavors may reduce the most talkative diners to monosyllabic expressions of bliss.”

Gael Greene tries upmarket sports-bar food at Clyde Frazier’s Wine and Dine: “This Disneyland for hoop fans and Clydaniacs is not just sexy and funnish (as one of my editors noted–of course, I was shocked by her usage). You can also eat well. Most of what I tasted in two visits was good or very good.”