Fish Stew With Bean Curd on Rice from Kang Kee (124 Hester Street, 212-966-2876)
Kang Kee’s menu is simple and starchy–lots of dishes on rice, congee, noodles in soup, and lo mein–and there are few frills.
But this $6 dish is a masterpiece made for your mouth.
The thick brown gravy packs less salt than most soy-and-cornstarch-based sauces and abounds with garlic and chile slices and even hints of ginger.
It provides just enough heat and hearty flavoring as to jazz up the silken bean curd and mild, breaded fish without drowning out the proteins’ unique flavors.
NOTE: Our good camera is experiencing technical difficulties (dumplings, grease) at the moment. So we apologize for the less-than-perfect pics in the interim.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on May 9, 2012