Why the four forks in the fatah? Because you’re supposed to share it with three friends directly from the bowl.
You know how sometimes you try something new for breakfast, and all of a sudden you want to eat it every day? Well, that was how it was with me and fatah.
Fatah is about the only thing in the cuisine of Yemen that can be called dessert. Or breakfast. By American standards, that is. The warm concoction consists of strips of the giant flatbreads roasted in the oven, inundated with honey and melted butter, and sprinkled with savory nigella seeds, which fling off a faint oniony flavor.
There’s also doubtlessly some cardamom in there too, a seasoning beloved of Yemenis. Find fatah at the newly opened Yemen Café, a Bay Ridge branch of a place that has been operated on Atlantic Avenue since 1986.
The menu contains all sorts of roasted lamb and chicken, rice dishes, long-stewed vegetables, pristine salads, and a French (huh?) welcoming consomme with every entrée. And the staff couldn’t be nicer.
Bay Ridge’s brand-new Yemen Cafe
7130 Fifth Avenue
Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on May 22, 2012