Cajun cooks know that the shrimp’s head is the best part, oozing the red oil that gives these crustaceans 95 percent of their flavor. And now the Japanese know it, too.
At the once-wildly-popular Tomoe Sushi in Greenwich Village, the list of special appetizers has recently included a copious pile of shrimp heads for $7, as many as two hungry people would want to eat.
The crunch is prodigious, the flavor delectable, and the panko crust as light as dandruff on the shoulders of an astronaut. But beyond the wonderful shrimp heads is a further oddness: They’re served–in a near-miraculous act of international fusion–with Mexican guacamole. If you’re like me and my companion, you’ll find yourself eating the heads and the very garlicky guac separately.
172 Thompson Street
The wait for a table at Tomoe can still be an hour or more.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on May 23, 2012