Robert Sietsema at Little Pepper; Tejal Rao at La Vara


See what NYC’s restaurant critics have been up to this week:

Robert Sietsema tries the Sichuan fare at Little Pepper: “The tiny chunks of light and dark meat lurk among bales of toasted red chiles, and for once, the peppers seem to have conferred their hotness on the poultry. Raw sesame seeds scatter on top like snow on a dormant volcano. The burn is prodigious.”

Tejal Rao hits up La Vara and samples the Spanish fare there: “La Vara, which opened in late March, plays with the older, irresistible flavors established by Spain’s forgotten cooks.”

Adam Platt also goes to La Vara and gives them two stars: “The tiny little Gibraltar chicken hearts turned out to be peppery and pleasingly tender on the evening my fellow travelers and I sampled them.”

Pete Wells keeps with his predecessors and awards four stars to Le Bernardin: “The fish is treated like meat and likes it.”

Ryan Sutton goes for sushi at Neta: “And that signature spicy salmon dish, the last composed course before sushi service begins, boasts a gorgeous unctuousness. The cool tartare sits below bonito flakes and a layer of sizzling rice.”

Jay Cheshes tries out the Middle Eastern food at Almayass: “Dishes, arriving in quick succession, feature a melting pot of Middle Eastern flavors, reflecting the Armenian diaspora of the past couple centuries.”

NoMad gets more coverage this month, but this time by Steve Cuozzo: “NoMad’s a la carte is cheaper than at a steakhouse.”