Pig’s Ear, Chicken Feet, Tilapia, and Lo Mein from Tops Food Co (139 East Broadway, 212-566-0203)
Where to begin?
First off, this hot, heaping display only costs $5.25.
Second, and most important, this is by far one of the better meals we’ve had during this series.
The shredded pig’s ear — with just the perfect amount of cartilaginous crunch — comes tossed with halved peanuts in a light soy-based dressing. In an obvious nod to food of Fuzhou, the fantastically fatty chicken feet have been cooked in a pink, semi-sweet glaze that’s similar to the barbecue sauce used with roast pork. The tilapia, though simple, bursts with fresh flavor — perhaps on account of its no-frills prep.
And the noodles, mein godt, the noodles: This greasy bed of round, starchy strands comes packed with green onion and ginger and takes on the meats’ juices, making this savory staple outright masterful.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on May 28, 2012