Kau Fu from Shanghai Asian Cuisine (14 Elizabeth Street, 212-964-5640)
We have come to love a lot about Shanghai Asian Cuisine, and even though the stereotypical Cantonese-esque mains ain’t stellar, the soup dumplings astound, as do the noodles with meat sauce.
However, one of the cold dishes–which is also one of the few Shanghai specialties on the menu–simply does not match the other selections in terms of quality.
The $4.75 kau fu comes across like any run-of-the-mill wheat gluten, and the spicy-sweet soy-based sauce does not surprise. It’s good, but not something to order when there are so many other great items.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on May 31, 2012