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Egg Roll from Kosher Delight (1359 Broadway, 212-563-3366)
One of the coolest things about Cantonese-American cuisine how it unifies us: Different cultures in the U.S. adapt it to fit their dietary or religious guidelines, but what’s clear is a common love for Chinese fast food.
Before this series began, for example, we once came across Halal takeout. There is also chifa cuisine, which blends Latin and Chinese culinary traditions. We have also had the chance to sample several of the city’s Kosher options. Some simply don’t feature pork. Others offer completely meat-free menus.
Because pieces of pig tend to be integral to a good egg roll, we wondered how Kosher Delight would carry this dish off. Would they make like Eden Wok, and stuff the thing with smokey pastrami? Or would they serve up a vegetarian version?
We detected a few fatty crumbles of beef swirled with the shredded cabbage. The veggie’s seasoning — which usually gets neglected — actually carried this app: the perfect amount of salt and pepper were used. Ultimately, this savory spiciness distracted from the lack of porcine oil.
We would gladly order this greasy gut-buster again — even though it was pricey $3.75.