Robert Sietsema at Boukiés; Tejal Rao at Zutto


Robert Sietsema pays a visit to Boukiés: “The most exciting part of the menu is Pitarakia, those savory phyllo pastries of which spanakopita is the most well-known. You can get pies filled with feta and drizzled with honey or ones enwrapping an herby seafood combo.”

Tejal Rao
goes to Joshua Smookler’s Zutto in Tribeca for ramen: “At Zutto in Tribeca, the tonkotsu ramen broth is thick and cream-colored, so concentrated with marrow and bone that it nourishes and obliterates you all at once ($16). A few hot slurps, and the pork buzz kicks in. Your lips get sticky, and you’re taken over by an unquenchable thirst for cold beer.”

Ryan Sutton is also unimpressed by Hakkasan: “Hakkasan is less about exposing New Yorkers to traditional Chinese luxuries, than using expensive Western ingredients in vaguely Eastern dishes as a DJ plays club music.”

Pete Wells for the Times reviews Neta: “Neta will be an even more exciting and confident restaurant when the chefs have learned to trust their customers. In the meantime, it has compensatory pleasures. One of the biggest (and stop that laughing) is vegetable sushi.”

Also in the Times is a review for Catch by Ligaya Mishan: “The sushi is surprisingly serious. It is best straight up, the fish cool and unadorned against barely warm rice ($4 to $7 a piece). The rolls ($10 to $16) are oppressed by condiments and that eternal interloper, avocado.”

Steve Cuzzo tries the fare at Dragonfly: “Gallagher set out to interpret Southeast Asian ‘street food’ and larger dishes through a New York prism.”