Ja leung–a fried cruller wrapped in rice noodle–is wonderfully executed at Spring Garden.
Brooklyn has long led Manhattan and Flushing in the perfection of its dim sum. There are a half-dozen distinguished eating halls that provide the set of small dishes this meal entails with exemplary freshness and at bargain prices. Now a new contender looms on the horizon, perhaps providing the best dim sum in Brooklyn.
Opulent yet well lit, Spring Garden has yet to become a foodie destination.
Cantonese joint Spring Garden (sometimes styled New Spring Garden) is by no means new. But its location on 65th near Fort Hamilton Parkway has masked its greatness. It’s not really in Sunset Park’s Chinatown proper, though it’s located in a mainly Chinese industrial district that extends eastward from the neighborhood.
What’s more, it’s on the same street as East Harbor Seafood Palace, a well-known foodie destination celebrated for its dim sum quality.
A recent daytime visit showed the excellence of Spring Garden’s output, though we’re not yet prepared to declare it the winner for the entire borough. That visit was at 2 p.m., a time when most dim sum parlors are long out of most varieties. At that late hour, Spring Garden was going strong, and three of us ate our asses off for less than $10 apiece.
Here are a few of the plates we enjoyed.
The shrimp har gow are more elaborately turned out than usual, the wrappers so light as to be almost invisible.
These somewhat newfangled steamed-pork dumplings also incorporate diced vegetables, possibly in a nod to modern ideas about nutrition.
The pork riblets steamed with black beans called pie gwat here come with bonus cubes of pumpkin, improving the color range of the dish, at least.
Shanghai-style pork meatballs seasoned with orange zest
Hong Kong-style steamed rice with Chinese sausage
The tenderest soy-braised chicken feet you’ve ever tasted
By 3 p.m., the place has cleared out.
912 65th Street
Dyker Heights, Brooklyn
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on June 20, 2012