Robert Sietsema at Mission Chinese; Tejal Rao at Foragers City Table


[See More Under Review: Tejal Rao at Reynards; Robert Sietsema at Yemen Café | Robert Sietsema at Pete Zaaz; Tejal Rao at Landbrot | Tejal Rao at Pok Pok Ny; Robert Sietsema on Eldridge Street]

Robert Sietsema says that although Mission Chinese is not completely authentic Sichuan food, it is likably cheap and the menu is like “a wild sleigh ride down an Asian mountain.” According to Sietsema: “Bowien has substituted house-fermented fava beans for the standard soybean paste and added braised pork shoulder, chunkier than the usual ground meat. The curd is whiter and lighter, too. Damn, it’s good!”

Tejal Rao goes to Foragers City Table this week and says that although the food at Foragers City Table might not be transcendent, it can be satisfying: “A chopped salad of Little Gem arrives surrounded by fun playmates: a teaspoon of fermented tea leaves, crispy dried shrimp, slices of fried garlic, sunflower seeds, fried split peas, and peanuts ($15). Toss them all together for a rainbow of texture and flavor, and you’ll be honeymooning all the way to the last bite.”

Adam Platt checks out Reynards and Back Forty West. One star for each of them. For Reynards: “There’s nothing groundbreaking about this kind of cooking, of course, and as dinner proceeds, the sense of raucous, neighborhood terroir that Brooklyn restaurants are so famous for slowly dissipates in the great, echoing dining hall.” And for Back Forty West, Platt notes that some of the dishes had a “retread, assembly-line quality to them.”

The New Yorker reviews La Promenade Des Anglais and points out the bad service: “There are signs of schizophrenia, only some of which are attributable to the Franco-Italian mélange of the Côte d’Azur and of Allegretti’s upbringing, on both sides of the border.”

Time Out New York checks out the fare at La Vara: “If their cooking returns to its less cerebral roots, La Vara as a cross-cultural concept might actually work.”

Hill Country Barbecue Market gets two stars from Pete Wells: “Moist brisket on greasy paper is not the only reason to eat at Hill Country, but it’s a convincing one.”



Archive Highlights