Jim Lahey’s olive oil cake is sweeter than you might expect, and tastes of vanilla and lemon zest.
It’s been over a year since the windows of 236 Ninth were lined with brown paper, and locals had despaired of the place ever opening, even though it was steps away from Co., Jim Lahey’s celebrated pizzeria. Then all of a sudden, the doors were flung open last Friday (correction: Or so we thought, the actual opening was two days earlier on Wednesday, July 11), giving us a first glimpse of the splendors (well, maybe that’s too strong a word) inside.
Finally! The second branch of Sullivan St Bakery opens in Chelsea.
While we might expect the place to mainly sell goods produced at the West 47th Street location of the bakery, when you enter the bunker-like space (with concrete floors and spare seating and decor, quite pleasant), the first thing you see is a bank of convection ovens at the end of the room, and the counter guy informed me there were ovens downstairs, too.
Like the other branch, Sullivan Chelsea sells breads (including a sourdough pullman, stirato, and brioche loaf), cookies, coffees cold and hot, and a handful of Italian groceries. Of course, pastries — ranked under glass near the register — are front and center, not a large collection, but all good that we tasted (though Fork in the Road thought the canotto dolce a little burned.)
Canotto dolce (there’s also a savory version made with prosciutto, fennel, and gruyere.
The Italian croissants called cornetti
Sullivan St Bakery
236 Ninth Avenue