This slice is a gut bomb, par excellence.
On the uncertain fault line between German-American and Italian-American cooking lies the bacon-cheeseburger slice. Formatted like a pizza pie, it showcases the essential elements of a dolled-up burger.
It’s really much better tasting than it looks, with the mozzarella and cheddar complementing each other like a mixed-race couple. And the salty, smoky bacon backs up the bland ground beef, which nevertheless manages to deliver a prodigious beefy flavor.
Yes, I like this slice, believe it or not.
The place to find it is Abruzzi Pizzeria in Hell’s Kitchen, where the shop commits all kinds of shenanigans in its pizza formulations. Abruzzi, of course, is a region of Central Italy just over the Apennines from Rome, a rugged area where the stuffed pizza was invented. (You can experience that phenomenon — a double crust filled with potatoes, sausage, and pepperoni — at La Villa Pizzeria in Park Slope, made by pizza makers actually hailing from Abruzzi.)
642 Ninth Avenue
Open till 1 a.m.!