What the hell is this? It looks like some abstract 3-D painting.
[See Tejal Rao’s review of Neta in photos]
This week, Counter Culture sneaks into Tacos Cachanilla in the shadow of Our Lady of Perpetual Help Basilica in Sunset Park. It’s probably the city’s most evolved taqueria and claims to model itself on the great taquerias of Tijuana, but really offering the corn-based meals common to the entire country, with more varieties of picaditas, sopes, huaraches, mulitas, tacos placeros, chalupas, quesadillas, and gorditas than you’ve ever seen before. The best part: Even the tortillas are made from scratch.
5. Chicharron Preparado (above) — What a feed for $7.75! And even cheaper if you forego the meat in the toppings. The giant platform is inspired by the real fried pigskins enjoyed by Mexican diners, but is actually made of wheat flour shaped and fried. Hey, the crunch quotient is better than the real thing!
4. Pozole — Mexico’s great oregano-laced pork-and-hominy stew is usually weekends-only, but here it’s served seven days a week, with three bonus tostadas and add-ins that run to radishes, lime juice, and raw onions.
3. Picadita — This mellow masa flying saucer is squirted with contrasting red and green salsas and heaped with cheese to resemble a rough approximation of the Mexican flag. Then the final squiggles of crema go on to ruin the resemblance.
2. Chile Relleno Taco Placeros — This “market taco” has an entire fried-and-stuffed fresh chile inside, plus rice, pepper strips, and french fries. So it’s really, really big.
Next: Number one
1. Chicken Enchiladas With Salsa Verde — Despite all the unfamiliar oddities on the menu, the best thing we ate was the chicken enchiladas in tart homemade green salsa, and the freshly formed tortillas made it one of the best versions in town.
Look at all that neon!
5807 Fifth Avenue
Sunset Park, Brooklyn
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 22, 2012