Robert Sietsema visits Tacos Cachanilla, one of the city’s most evolved taquerias: “Relatively new to New York, these ‘market tacos’ are fabricated from giant flatbreads too big to be called tortillas. Also within find yellow rice, fried chile strips, onions cooked to softness, and–brace yourself–excellent skin-on French fries for a multi-starch whammy.”
Tejal Rao maintains that Neta, a high-end sushi restaurant in the West Village, takes their work seriously: “One of the most wonderful dishes at Neta is the uni porridge ($18), the sea urchin melted into a bowl of warm, broken rice, with shavings of summer truffle. It tastes purely of ocean and earth, like the fortifying breakfast of some ancient god of the sea.”
Two stars for La Vara by Pete Wells. He complained about the noodles, which looked like a “halfhearted attempt to disguise last night’s pasta,” but was fond of the fish: “Another gift from the Moors was deep-fried fish, a term that doesn’t suggest just how delicious the long ribbons of fried, marinated, pimentón-dusted skate called raya en adobo turn out to be.”
The New Yorker heads over to the Brooklyn Crab and counters the “disgruntled Yelpers:” Fried Ipswich belly clams are succulent, crab cakes are the wet Maryland style, the wedge salad is drenched in dressing. Get the blue crabs if you’re in the mood for a project–they’re a lot of work for a little payoff.
Stan Stagner for the Daily News files in a review for Comodo in Soho. It’s loud, casual, and carries, what he calls a “club vibe.” As for the food, it is a mashup of Latin-American influences inspired by the chef’s travels throughout the region: “The clear, confident winner, however, is the ample Hudson Valley Duck ($28) — first steeped in Mexican Coke and then assertively seasoned, it arrives tender and pink atop a fragrant mound of smoky delicate quinoa studded with bits of mozzarella.”
Ryan Sutton writes about Crave Ceviche Bar in Turtle Bay: “Mitgang exhibits deftness with his seafood and meats, coating baby octopus with a succulent veal glace and musky maitake mushrooms.”
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 22, 2012