New York

Which Trend Nazi Invented Brunch?


You know, that infernal hybrid of breakfast and lunch that appeals to hipsters and sickos.

I ask that very question in my current column, a hilarious yet insightful romp consisting of 40 things I hate about food.

And thanks to a devoted reader, I now have my trend-Nazi answer.

Don Spiro writes:

Since you asked, the answer is: A woman in New Orleans over a century ago.

From Zelda Magazine, Spring 2012:

“An October 1906 New York Times obituary notes the death of Mme. Bégué, stating ‘MME. BEGUE DEAD; New Orleans’s Famous Cordon Bleu Ruled Her Kitchen for 43 Years.

“Born in Germany in 1853, Elizabeth Kettenring Dutreuil Bégué owned Bégué’s at Decatur at the corner of Madison in the French Quarter. She served one meal, between breakfast and lunch, which became popular across America as ‘brunch’.”

Well, let me lift a soggy omelette and a wilted mimosa to Madame Begue, who ruined my entire life with her hateful, fussy foodie-ism!

Without brunch, New York would actually be livable!

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