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Try Beautiful, Wobbly, Fresh Tofu | Village Voice


Try Beautiful, Wobbly, Fresh Tofu


Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, the tasty countdown leading up to our “Best of 2012” issue. Tune in each day (weekends too!) for a new dish from the Fork in the Road team.

[See More 100 Dishes: Sai Krok E-San at Chao Thai Too, Dish #50 | Pannelle Special from Ferdinando’s Focacceria, Dish #51]

Freshly scooped tofu from EN Japanese Brasserie, $11, Dish #49

Tofu can reveal the beauty of fresh soy milk and its capacity for texture and flavor. Really! Over the years, chef Abe Hiroko has converted many a hater with this extraordinarily simple dish.

Every hour or so, EN makes a small batch of fresh soy milk, heats it up, then mixes it with nigari, the magnesium chloride extracted from sea water that nudges the milk, encouraging it to transform into a rich, creamy custard. The fresh curd is served warm and wobbly under a layer of milk.

It arrives with a side of warijoyu — a mellow mix of soy sauce, dashi (the wonderfully fishy broth of seaweed and dried tuna) and sweet mirin. Season with warijoyu as you scoop, but be gentle: The delicate tofu can barely hold itself together.

EN Japanese Brasserie
435 Hudson Street

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