In Flushing, Street Cart Food Moves Indoors


One of these dishes is #17 in our countdown, but which one?

Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, the tasty countdown leading up to our “Best of 2012” issue. Tune in each day (weekends too!) for a new dish from the Fork in the Road team.

A few days ago, Fork in the Road detailed how Northern Chinese BBQ carts have been multiplying and extending their menus to include such unusual items as green beans and lamb kidneys. There’s another tendency, too. Some carts are going brick-and-mortar, something we’ve seen in other street carts around the city, and one of the first to do so has recently appeared on Flushing’s Roosevelt Avenue, a bao’s throw from Macy’s.

You may be familiar with this type of steamed bun, known as char siu bao when stuffed with braised pork, from Cantonese dim sum parlors.

Feng Mao BBQ offers the small kebabs grilled over lump charcoal that are the province of the Beijing-style barbecue carts. To this collection it adds a menu of steamed northern-style wheaten breads called bao stuffed with a variety of substances. The one above contains kimchee bound with scrambled egg, making a dish at once both spicy and mellow, with a nice salty kick and slight sweetness from the bread.

At $1, these kimchee buns are notably cheap; two make a very filling meal, especially if you choose the one bearing smashed black beans as the complement to the kimchee bun.

Feng Mao replaces a previous tenant called Oh My Chicken! The barbecue occupies a shallow space at the front of the restaurant, while the seating area remains partly darkened. So the food remains street food you eat standing up, but I suppose you could ask the guy to turn on the lights so you could sit down.

Feng Mao BBQ
136-88 Roosevelt Avenue
Flushing, Queens

The kimchee filling shows the Korean influence on Northern Chinese cooking.

It looks like a sit down restaurant, but the seating area remains unused.