New barbecues in town are always astonishing us, with their dedication to smoke, unfussiness, and well-selected lists of bovine, porcine, poultry, and ovine cuts. Oh, yeah, and the beer lists don’t suck, either. John Brown Smokehouse is this year’s 900-pound gorilla in the room, channeling the ‘cue of Kansas City but with an Austin type of intensity. The place started out in one Long Island City neighborhood late last year and now has moved to another. Don’t miss the lamb sausage, pulled pork, and, paradoxically, chicken. But the best thing on the menu is the burnt ends of the brisket. Sides such as mac and cheese, slaws, and French fries are way above average. 10-43 44th Drive, Queens, 347-617-1120, johnbrownseriousbbq.com (11101)