If you ever accidentally ordered a chicken empanada from the pink-and-yellow house at
Smorgasburg, you surely won’t be doing it again. However, you might walk away newly pinned with a colorful anti-empanada button and a hefty Bolivian pastry called a salteña, stuffed with your choice of richly marinated beef, chicken or quinoa, crafted by the brothers of La Casa de Camba. Alex, Patrick, and David Oropeza provide a quirky and thoroughly customer-centric experience at their elaborate booth, which takes an exhausting two and a half hours to set up. Though perhaps left a little sleep deprived, they never fall short of their commitment to making Bolivian comfort food with finesse. With two posts in Williamsburg and Rockaway Beach, La Casa de Camba dedicates the culinary enterprise to bring refinement to classic family recipes with a generous dash of humor.
Big menu favorites also include the Sandwich de Chola, a street-style sandwich piled with
Bolivian pulled pork and bacon, tangy pickled chiles, hibiscus red onions, and carrots. Another fun thing to watch — they continually carbonate bottles of fruit sodas with a tank of CO2.
The Oropezas are already innovating their brand and have hinted at a very enticing, very indulgent salteña-eating contest to launch at next summer’s Brooklyn Flea.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 4, 2012