Victory’s Prima Pils
Style: German Pilsner
Serving style: Draft
ABV: 5.3 percent
Appearance: This brew pours a hazy yellow. The soapy head is about an inch thick, and holds for a moment before fading into the carbonation. Under the right light, some underlying copper tones shine through. The whole thing is quite purdy, really.
Aroma: The scent is heavy on the hops, which came as a pleasant surprise. That combines with an even graininess, with wafts of citrus and grapefruit. It smells fresh and springy. Every time I take a wiff of this particular brew (which I do often, because I drink it often), it reminds me why I love beer, and more importantly, why I’m willing to get suds on my nose every time I sit down for happy hour.
Taste: The Prima Pils has a crisp, clean taste that’s quite similar to its aroma. There’s a bit of lingering bitterness, but it doesn’t last too long.
Mouthfeel: It’s medium bodied with medium carbonation. I’m surprised that there’s such an intense hop scent and taste, yet Victory manages to do it without making the beer undrinkable. The low ABV probably helps, but still, I appreciate not having to chew the brew.
Overall Experience: I’ve written and deleted the word “happy” about seven times while writing about Victory’s Prima Pils, because, well, this beer is just so god-damn joyful. I’m a bit biased, I guess, because pilsners tend to be my go-to style for drafts. But regardless, this gets all the check marks in all the right boxes. It’s nicely balanced, extremely refreshing, and the perfect brew for every season. It may be a little hoppier than your standard pils, but that’s not at all a bad thing. I’d recommend this to anyone, no matter their level of beer appreciation. The Victory Prima Pils is a crowdpleaser, and not in a way that sells itself out.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 26, 2012