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Our own Tejal Rao welcomes the return of the Mountie-chic M.Wells Dinette at PS. 1 in Long Island City. The menu,”full of fatty odds and ends, slippery bits and bobs,” includes “rustic, respectable dishes done right, like the warm tongue salad with cornichons in a creamy tarragon dressing.”
Also at The Voice, Robert Sietsema praises the “excellent tamales” at Sabor a Mexico Taqueria in the East Village. With an unassuming facade, “the tiny café-that-could replicates such regional southern Mexico commonplaces as mole poblano and mole pipian, both featuring chicken; hand-sculpted masa huaraches; chiles relleno filled with cheese in a plain tomato sauce; roasted carnitas; and flautas filled with your choice of chicken, cheese, or the dried beef called cecina. At this point, the menu loudly grinds its gears, and shifts into a Mexican-American vein.”
In an overwhelmingly scathing review, Pete Wells, at The Times pulls out one of the “500 chairs” at Guy Fieri’s Guy’s American Kitchen and Bar. While the entrance sign may read, “WELCOME TO FLAVOR TOWN,” the restaurant serves “far from awesome” dishes like “Guy’s Pat LaFrieda custom blend, all-natural Creekstone Farm Black Angus beef patty, LTOP (lettuce, tomato, onion + pickle), SMC (super-melty-cheese) and a slathering of Donkey Sauce on garlic-buttered brioche.”
NY Mag’s Adam Platt visits Gaonnuri, the Korean Restaurant in the clouds on 39th Street. “With its gently thrumming disco soundtrack and panoramic skyscraper views, the modish dining room feels less like a classic Koreatown joint than like something from the set of Lost in Translation.”
Steve Cuozzo, at the NY Post employs his real estate-focused eye on the Upper East Side’s “culinary wasteland.” While the energy is decidedly lower than their downtown counterparts, Cuozzo still finds “power scenes,” “French bliss,” and “ethnic discoveries” in the swank locale.
The expert oyster shuckers at Maison Premiere in Brooklyn are given high praise by Bloomberg’s Ryan Sutton. The dining room may “smell of high-tide and horseradish,” but the pricey dishes are worth their expense. Particularly noteworthy are the “There are oddly satisfying surf-and-turfs: octopus and pig’s head terrine ($16), sea scallops with foie gras mousse ($17).”
Amelia Lester explores “foods you never knew you wanted” at The Toucan and the Lion in The New Yorker. The satisfying delights include “Scotch eggs with lime aioli; a burger with cashew butter; burrata not with olive oil but with peanut-calamansi paste.”