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The deli ramen at Dassara imports three notions from Jewish delis: pastrami, matzo balls, and chicken broth.
Maybe New York isn’t the ramen capital of the world yet, but it is asserting itself as a place on the vanguard of ramen innovation. And whether you’re a traditionalist where these Sino-Nipponese noodles are concerned, or eager to taste each new invention — be it novel broths, weird add-ins, or mutations on the noodles themselves — there are probably more types of ramen here today than anywhere else, with the possible exception of Tokyo. Not only do we have Japanese chains, we have plenty of maverick operations as well.
This week Counter Culture explores three Brooklyn ramen spots that are certainly on the frontiers of noodledom. Here are their most revolutionary bowls.
Proving that an astonishing bowl of vegetarian ramen is more than a theoretical possibility, the miso/market vegetable ramen at Chuko in Prospect Heights dazzles.
Yebisu Ramen presents a northern Japanese take on ramen in Williamsburg, and this bowl of seafood noodles is Sapporo’s bouillabaisse.