Slip Me Some Skin! Salmon Skin, That Is.


The salmon-skin don will set you back $8.75 at Ennju, just steps away from Union Square.

I know a guy who loves turkey skin so much, that he bribed a neighborhood deli man to save him entire intact skins when fresh turkey sandwiches were made. And who doesn’t realize that the skin of a roast chicken is the best part? An entire snack-food industry is based on deep-fried pig skins, and the skin side of a fish filet is often the only thing cooked in fancy restaurants. Add to this skin adulation the salmon skin don at Ennju.

When I ordered it, I didn’t know what to expect. A giant intact piece of skin balanced on top like a teeter-totter? Indeed, this over-rice preparation is one of culinary gleanings, a moist toss of rice and all sorts of small swatches of skin torn from the face and torso, some crisp, some limp and looking like pieces of shiny foil. To sweeten the pot, shredded nori is strewn with abandon, and there’s a nice wad of bright orange salmon roe on top. Little pieces of oily salmon flesh also circulate in the whitish heap.

Altogether a satisfying and saline dish, and a frequent special at Ennju.

20 East 17th Street

What the dish looks like once you begin excavating