Reach deep into your pocket for a taste of NY in SF.
The City by the Bay is as pop-up crazy as New York. San Francisco FiTR correspondent Tracy Van Dyk reports that a current Mission pop-up near the corner of Guerrero and 18th serves one thing, and one thing only: New York-style bagels. But there’s a catch: The bagels are $3 apiece.
Schmendricks bagels are tough and a little on the runty side.
The pop-up is called Schmendricks, and it happens only Wednesdays and Fridays at Fayes Video starting at 7:30 a.m., and concluding when the bagels give out. Schmendricks is the brainchild of investment banker Dan Scholnick, a partner at Trinity Ventures, who apparently was dissatisfied with all the competing Bay Area bagels, many of which claim to be New York bagels.
According to the preachy and earnest statement on the Schmendricks website, toasting these bagels is prohibited: “If you’re not sure how to properly treat this thing, we’ll have to ask you to give it back to us. This is an authentic Brooklyn bagel. That means it was hand-rolled and boiled before it was baked.” Not sure what “Brooklyn bagel” means vis-à-vis New York bagels in general, but the statement goes on to say that plain, sesame, poppy, onion, garlic, and salt are the only authentic bagel flavors, and “even an everything bagel pushes the limits of authenticity.”
Balderdash! I asked Van Dyk (a New York City native) what she thought of Schmendricks pretentious and expensive bagels. Her reply was terse: “Outside is way too tough. Bagel is tiny. It’s also a bit yeasty tasting. Very hard to chew through,” suggesting Schmendricks is boiling its bagels much too long (45 seconds to two minutes is plenty).
Don’t you dare toast this “Brooklyn bagel,” even if you want to melt butter on it!
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 3, 2012