Tejal Rao took a break from professional eating this week, but our own Robert Sietsema kept at it by checking in at Le Midi Bistro. Located in a former East Village Woolworth’s building and karaoke den, Sietsema notes in his review of Le Midi that the restaurant “is one of those old-school bistros where the food skews rich and salty, olive oil flows like tap water, and the portions make you think twice about ordering dessert.” And while some dishes at the Provençal restaurant appear “positively Alsatian,” geographic confusion aside, much of Sietsema’s meal was “utterly delicious.”
At the Times Pete Wells ushers in trendy Mexican cuisine at El Toro Blanco, the latest venture from prolific Soho partners John McDonald and Josh Capon. While the space evokes a Nixon-era dining room, the food won’t shock your palate. Wells writes of the tacos, tamales, and ceviches, “none of this is likely to alter your perceptions of Mexico, but put a few of these snacks together with a margarita on the rocks — the best, El Toro, is sweetened with orange juice and agave syrup, not liqueur — and the night will cruise along like a 707 to Acapulco.” He awards the restaurant one star.
Michael Kaminer, at the Daily News, dines at Super Linda in Tribeca and warns not to be “put off by cartoonish velvet-rope attitude at the front door.” While the restaurant’s initial buzz has died down, there is “a generous heart beat[ing] beneath the frosty downtown exterior; portions are massive, and service downright sweet.”
Time Out’s Jay Cheshes reviews L’Apicio in the East Village and seems satisfied, if not completely wowed. He finds that the “crowd-pleasing food isn’t chasing trends or setting them, but with its bold, layered flavors, it has enough personality to match [a] quirky wine list.”
Bloomberg’sRyan Sutton is not happy at Bill’s Food and Drink. While “not everything’s awful,” at the former speakeasy, Sutton is slightly appalled by the pricey entrees ($69 dover sole! $110 osso bucco!) and lackluster experience. He writes that “there’s something particularly dispiriting about Crown Group turning a storied Midtown bar into a spot as exorbitant in its prices as it is in its mediocrity.” He gives the restaurant half a star.
At the New Yorker, Lizzie Widdicombe observes that the Lower East Side’s Pig and Khao “is not Momofuku.” She finds the experience to be uneven but suggests saving room for dessert.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 9, 2013