We’re almost two weeks into January, and for those of you still dieting, we offer our congratulations–reluctantly. It can’t be easy to live in a food city such as New York and spend your days and nights chugging down BluePrint Cleanse cashew drinks and eating raw kale chips. So bravo, we guess. Now for those of you whose New Year’s resolutions include taking risks, eating more interesting meals, and putting your health off until 2014–go to Prune and order what some affectionately call “the butter burger.”
The lunch menu at Prune–the East Village brainchild of celebrated chef Gabrielle Hamilton–features grilled veal, braised fennel, and cuttlefish in its own ink. But food snobs rejoice–the burger here isn’t some cheap throwaway for the unadventurous patron or petulant child. It belongs on this menu right along with the flageolet and chanterelle ragout. The burger is a near two-inch-thick, calorie-laden, cholesterol-raising, artery-clogging chunk of heaven.
So if you are attached to runny tomato slices, wilted lettuce, and cheap yellowy bread with loose sesame seeds on top, this is certainly not the place or the plate for you. Prune’s burger is 80 percent beef and 20 percent lamb, delicately shaped into a thick patty and lightly sprinkled with salt and pepper. Afterward, it’s gently set on the grill to cook. No spatula pressing allowed! Maximum juice retention is key. A slice of sharp Cabot cheddar is melted atop the sizzling mound and then the carnivorous heap is placed on a toasted English muffin with a generous helping of parsley and shallot butter spread across muffin’s crust. Take that Paula Deen. This is sophisticated fat.
Your waiter will bring you a knife and fork, but don’t even bother. Let your inner diet defector drown in delight.
54 East 1st Street