Our own Tejal Rao appreciates the refined elegance amidst the southern hospitality at Maysville, the new Flatiron restaurant from chef Kyle Knall. The Gramercy Tavern alum shows his roots at his new spot. Rao writes, “Knall has [GT chef Michael] Anthony’s reverence for local vegetables, always accompanying moderate portions of meat with several kinds of beans, greens, mushrooms, and tubers, and often pickling whatever is growing at the moment to elevate and brighten a dish.” Maysville is a “restaurant to visit and enjoy immediately.”
Also at The Voice, Robert Sietsema checks in at Chennai Flavors, the South Indian cafe in Jersey City. The egg-centric menu is not for the faint of heart (or breath) as the “Chennai egg masala ($6.99) deposits the hard-boiled article in a creamy beige sauce with enough garlic to get you booted off OkCupid.” The dosas are worth trying as well.
Over at The Times, Pete Wells visits the Upper East Side nouveau steakhouse and sometime sushi bar, Arlington Club. While the place may suffer from a slight “identity crisis,” the overall effect is working. Wells writes that “the restaurant may not know what to call itself, but it knows what it’s doing.” He awards it two stars.
Stan Sanger, at the Daily News, enjoys the Filipino gastropub fare at Jeepney, in the East Village. Sanger finds that, while some of the menu is only for adventurous diners, “Jeepney still has plenty of lower octane adventures on hand. A good start is the Fried Tripe ($4), which arrives in a tangled heap of lightly battered strips seasoned with a sprinkle of salt and a side of jufran, a sweet-spicy banana ketchup.”
Time Out’s Jay Cheshes samples the slices at Krescendo, the new pizza joint from West Coast celebrity chef, Elizabeth Falkner. Before running to the Brooklyn restaurant, Cheshes warns, “though [the chef’s] blistered Neapolitan-style rounds feature excellent crispy crust, her pizzas are rarely on par with New York’s best–standard-bearers like Motorino and Kesté.”
Andrea K. Scott, at the New Yorker, deems El Toro Blanco a good place for “weekend warriors who just want to unwind downtown with friends over warm chips and cold margaritas.” The Soho restaurant offers Mexican food under So-Cal decor.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 16, 2013