Le Philosophe’s take on steak frites
This week, Counter Culture crawls into Le Philosophe, a new French bistro on Bond Street not far from the Village Voice offices on Cooper Square. The menu combines bistro commonplaces, rarely so well executed, along with adapted versions of more ambitious French fare – the kind you usually have to go to Midtown and blow over $100 per person to get. One of the best features of this place is the low-markup wine list, which allows you to explore several French producing regions at less than $30 per bottle. Here are five of the most remarkable dishes.
5. Grilled Flatiron (above) – A classic steak frites featuring a flatiron steak done rare cut in thick slices, its deliciousness only outdone by the herb-dusted fries. Once dipped in the bordelaise, that is.
4. Cured Fois Gras Terrine – A slice of creamy, unctuous torchon something like semi-liquid marble, sided with grilled brioche and smeared with quince jam, makes a near-perfect, assemble-it-yourself appetizer.
3. Frogs Legs – The amphibian nuggets have been deboned and tossed with mushrooms and sunchokes in a garlic-parsley sauce something like Florentine salsa verde. The sauce is so good, you’ll eat it like soup when the rest is gone.
2. Profiteroles – Three puffy pastry shells filled with caramel ice cream, flooded with thick chocolate sauce, and finally sprinkled with walnuts – we’re in profuse dessert nirvana here.
Next: The number one dish at Le Philosophe?
1. Roasted Chicken – Deposited in a savory, herb-flecked broth, this chicken knows no peer in this part of town. And the pommes dauphine on the side, like starchy puffballs, are not to be missed, either. You can use them to mop up the sauce.