Steven Alan has always been the man to go to for an expertly made button-down (see our Best of New York issue for Best Shirts to Steal From Your Boyfriend) and an unexpected take on everyday basics. Over the last 10 years, he’s launched numerous stores in the city and California and has a cult following of young fans who adore his line’s perfectly imperfect rumpled look. For those who love him, his presentation at Lincoln Center did not disappoint.
Shirtdresses over pants have popped up at several shows this week. But Alan did something different with it by throwing a short leather skirt on top and letting the shirtdress hang down beneath the skirt’s hemline. At first glance, you might think it’s a mistake.
But, Alan, whose signature reverse-seam shirt comes with a twisted placket, loves it when he can get you to do a double take. On one model, what seemed like a silky top and wool trousers was actually a jumpsuit. On another, a sharp-looking pair of navy-blue trousers was actually a sharp-looking pair of navy-blue sweatpants. Again, it’s all about looking simultaneously relaxed and pulled together.
In fact, Alan’s male models were almost too relaxed. The men, who were practically falling asleep standing up during the 9:30 a.m. presentation (we know, we know, they have a hard life), had on fitted turtlenecks over button-down shirts that peeked out at the bottom, tailored corduroy blazers and matching pants, and terrific fall and winter coats, including a suede bomber and a grey hooded parka. In short, lots of great pieces for girlfriends to steal from their boyfriends.
On the complete opposite end of the fashion spectrum was the presentation for Wes Gordon. A 2012 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, Gordon presented a group of women dripping in luxurious golds and furs at the Gramercy Theater. Gordon, 26, designs for the woman who needs countless fabulous outfits for all her many award ceremonies, benefits, and balls (for starters, see Michelle Obama and Lena Dunham)
For this collection, Gordon told Style.com that he was picturing both a “modern harem” and “the girl who’s having an affair with one of the Rolling Stones.” What? She can’t even be the girlfriend? She has to be the other woman? Not exactly an empowering vision for the 21st-century woman.
Indeed, this collection was tailor-made for the long, lanky party girl. There were many beautiful body-hugging dresses (our favorite was an embroidered dress that looked as though it were made from liquid gold), barely-there tops (including a revealing black lambskin halter), and bronze brocade pants (with extremely flared legs, of course).
One of the more head-scratching pieces in the collection was a long white wool coat with about two feet of shaggy goat hair hanging off the bottom. But the more we thought about it, the more it made sense. After all, how else is a girl and her lover supposed to cover up in the back of the limo?