You already know where to find the messiest hot dogs in New York, but one of the tastiest new dogs is hiding at Aska, a modern Scandinavian restaurant in Williamsburg, and the subject of this week’s review.
Fredrik Berselius, a young Swedish-born chef, runs Aska’s kitchen, serving refined $65 tasting menus by reservation in the back dining room (and a new $115 tasting on Friday and Saturday evenings), along with a number of more casual, unexpected cheap eats in the front — no reservation required.
The delicious “Swede Dog” ($5), for example, is served on a sheet of soft, house-made tunnbröd — a Swedish flatbread — with hot mashed potatoes, fried onions, brown mustard, and feathers of dill. Other dishes from the bar are in the $3-$14 range as well, and include excellent renditions of Swedish-inspired comfort food like potato dumplings stuffed with pork, potato soup with black radishes, and soft meatballs with lingonberries and mashed potatoes. My thoughts on this potato theme, and more of Aska’s eccentricities, are in the full review.
Aska, 90 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn, 718-388-2969
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on March 6, 2013