5 Ramens to Love, Plus Tribeca’s Secret Ramen


It’s been over a year since Fork ranked the best bowls of ramen in New York, and plenty of new ramenyas have opened up in the city since then. In fact, we can hardly keep up with the ramen news, what with Yuji Haraguchi graduating from Smorgasburg, and Ivan Orkin working on opening a place on the Lower East Side. In the last few months, we’ve been catching up so we could present five new favorites. Here they are:

Ganso: It’s always a delight to sit at the bar of Harris Salat’s excellent, bustling ramenya, which opened last September in downtown Brooklyn. Ryuji Irie cooks the ramen in a glass-encased kitchen, and the spicy “Stamina” ($14) is easily my favorite. Made with chicken broth and topped with chicken chashu, it’s then amplified with a squirt of chicken fat that’s been infused with chiles. The bowl’s dizzyingly rich and meaty, but packed with unexpected foliage too, like Japanese garlic chives, Napa cabbage, and mung sprouts. 25 Bond St.; 718-403-0900

Hanjan: There are plenty of excellent, complex dishes at Hooni Kim’s Flatiron restaurant (which I reviewed in February), but the Korean-style ramen is particularly charming — Kim found inspiration from an instant seafood-flavored version made by the industrial manufacturer, Shin Ramen. Of course, his version is slick and elevated, drawing flavor from a broth made with fish bones, chicken, and pork. The only catch: It can’t be ordered before 10 p.m. 36 W 26th St.; 212-206-7226

Talde: Dale Talde’s Park Slope restaurant is better known for its Kung Pao chicken wings than its ramen. But the dinner menu’s new roast chicken version is like a deeply comforting soup made from Thanksgiving leftovers. The thyme-happy broth is dotted with carrots, celery, and spring onions, and the fan of roast chicken is encased in a brown skin that stays nice and crisp, perched on a pile of skinny noodles. 369 7th Ave., Brooklyn; 347-916-0031

Ramen Yebisu: If you’re a noodle lover, the sleek, raised booths at this small, dark Williamsburg ramen shop can feel pretty romantic. Hokkaido-born Akira Hiratsuka, formerly of Yakitori Totto, rests the shop’s thick, delicious, Sapporo-style noodles for two days to coax out some flavor, and some of the bowls they appear in are startlingly good. The miso ramen ($12) is heavier and more complex than it sounds — a creamy, meaty broth, bolstered with miso, that unfolds in sweet, smoky layers. 126 N 6th St.; 718-782-1444


Jin Ramen: I don’t know why it took me so long to get to this friendly, packed, year-old ramen joint in Harlem — the kitchen is on top of its game. Shuichi Kotani, a Tokyo-trained soba maker, has a way with noodles, the chashu is beautifully cooked, and even the richer, cloudier broths are clean and aromatic (especially delicious when they’re dosed with Jin’s chile-garlic paste). Got a vegetarian in tow? There’s a veg-friendly broth on the menu, too. 3183 Broadway 646-559-2862

BONUS RAMEN: Shigure This lovely new sake bar in Tribeca has an excellent list (and a massive, corresponding map on the wall that will help you learn more about it). It isn’t a boisterous ramenya by any means, but, well, once you’ve had a bit to drink, go ahead and ask about the off-the-menu ramen. The springy noodles come in a lean, clean chicken-and-vegetable broth dosed with a little duck fat, and garnished with seaweed and scallions, instead of meat. 277 Church St.; 212-965-0200