Bitter pink Campari with soda water is one of my favorite retro aperitifs, but no one seems to get the proportions right. I find it’s always diluted with too much soda, like a watery dive-bar highball.
At Montmartre, Tien Ho and Gabe Stulman’s new French restaurant in Chelsea, the components of each Campari-and-soda are set up on a tray, so you can plonk in as many cubes as you like and mix it to your taste. It’s lovely and a little old-fashioned, like a Campari-soda should be.
My only complaint is that for a pour of bitters-spiked Campari with a side of soda and ice, the $13 price seems a bit steep. I wish this drink cost less than the rest of the cocktails on the menu, which take more time and skill to prepare–and aren’t DIY.
Montmartre, 158 8th Avenue; 646-596-8838
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 2, 2013